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What Destroys Rubber Tracks and How to Replace Them? A Complete Service Guide
What Destroys Rubber Tracks and How to Replace Them? A Complete Service Guide
More Than Just a Piece of Rubber
Rubber tracks revolutionized the world of compact machinery. Thanks to them, Kubota mini-excavators, Bobcat loaders, or Wacker Neuson dumpers can work on delicate surfaces without damaging them, while offering excellent traction and stability. However, the track is one of the hardest working and fastest-wearing components of the machine. A tear or de-tracking means immediate downtime. Understanding what causes damage and how to properly service this component is key to reducing costs and ensuring work continuity.
Anatomy of a Rubber Track
To understand why tracks fail, we need to know their construction. It's an advanced composite, consisting of three key layers:
- Outer Layer (Tread): A blend of natural and synthetic rubber, designed for abrasion resistance and traction.
- Steel Cords (Reinforcement): Woven steel cables running along the track. This is its "spine," which prevents stretching and transfers all the drive force.
- Internal Steel Links: Metal inserts that engage with the drive sprocket and guide the track along the rollers.
Anatomy of a Failure: Main Causes of Rubber Track Damage
1. Improper Tension – Enemy Number One
Track Too Loose: The main cause of de-tracking, especially during turns or on slopes. It also causes "track slap," accelerating wear on links and undercarriage components.
Track Too Tight: Generates immense load on the entire running gear. It leads to rubber cracking, accelerated wear on bearings in rollers, idlers, and expensive travel motors. It also significantly increases fuel consumption.
2. Worn Undercarriage – The Domino Effect
Installing a new track on a worn undercarriage is a waste of money. Sharp sprocket teeth will destroy the new links, and worn roller flanges will not guide the track properly, leading to de-tracking and edge damage.
3. Operator Errors and Working Conditions
Even the best track won't withstand mistreatment. The most destructive habits are:
- Aggressive pivot turns on hard surfaces (asphalt, concrete).
- Driving over sharp curbs, rebar, and rubble.
- Prolonged work across a steep slope, causing uneven load and edge wear.
- Contact with oils and chemicals, which degrade the rubber.
4. Environmental Factors
The Problem: Prolonged exposure to UV radiation (sunlight) causes ozone cracking – the rubber hardens, loses elasticity, and develops fine cracks. Frozen mud in the undercarriage, on the other hand, can act as a wedge, leading to a track tear when trying to move the machine.
Track Replacement Step by Step
SAFETY FIRST!
Work on a level, stable surface. Never place any part of your body under a machine supported only by its own hydraulics. Be extremely careful when releasing the tensioner – the grease is under high pressure!
- Preparation: Position the machine on stable ground. Prepare wrenches, a grease gun, and a sturdy pry bar. A helper will be invaluable.
- Lift the Machine: Use the dozer blade and arm to lift one side of the undercarriage off the ground.
- Release Tension: Locate the tensioner grease fitting. Very slowly and carefully loosen the adjacent valve until grease starts to escape and the idler retracts.
- Remove the Old Track: Use a pry bar to slide the track off the front idler first, then slowly rotate the undercarriage to walk the track off the remaining components.
- Inspect the Undercarriage: This is the perfect moment! Check the condition of the rollers, idler, and sprocket teeth. Replace any damaged components, such as those from the KERTRACK brand, to avoid destroying the new track.
- Install the New Track: Lay out the new track, paying attention to the tread direction. Fit it onto the rear sprocket first, then use a pry bar and slowly rotate the undercarriage to pull it over the idler and rollers.
- Adjust Tension: Close the valve and pump grease into the fitting until you achieve the correct sag (typically 1-3 cm between the track and the middle roller).
FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is track pitch (short vs. long)?
Pitch is the distance between the centers of the steel links. Short pitch tracks have more links, provide a smoother ride with less vibration, and extend undercarriage life. Long pitch tracks (where every other link is skipped) are cheaper and better at self-cleaning in very sticky mud, but they generate more vibration.
2. When should I replace my tracks?
When the tread depth is less than 5 mm, when deep cracks or exposed steel cords are visible, or when the track is so stretched that it can no longer be properly tensioned.
3. Can a torn rubber track be repaired?
No. Unlike steel tracks, a tear in the internal steel cord of a rubber track is irreparable and definitively ends its service life.
Does your machine need new tracks? Invest in quality.
Proper operation and maintenance are key to a long undercarriage life. However, when the time for replacement comes, contact us. We will help you choose the perfect rubber tracks and all the necessary undercarriage components from the KERTRACK brand, such as rollers and sprockets. Remember, drive performance also depends on the travel motors – if needed, we offer reliable TRK TRACK SOLUTIONS units.
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